Whether you are building or renovating, you cannot do without a properly and safely functioning electrical installation. But how do you do that? What do you have to think about? And do you do it yourself, or do you call in a professional?
New construction or renovation?
With new construction you start from scratch. When renovating, everything depends on the state of the electrical installation. Dating before October 1, 1981, the seller must submit an inspection report.
What if the electricity is rejected? No worries. Often it concerns things that you can easily solve, such as the lack of an earthing. In that case, you can drive an earthing pin into the ground (in the garden, if necessary) and place a residual current switch (also earth leakage or differential switch) at the beginning of the installation. There is hardly any grinding involved.
If the necessary interventions are more extensive, you inevitably have to cut and break them. Then it is best to combine the electrical work with a complete renovation, stripping the house down to the structural work.
Tip: you are often cheaper if you rebuild the electrical installation and power to choose Texas, just as with new construction. This can be done very gradually, so that the old installation continues to function until the new one is ready for use. So you don’t have to be without electricity for a day.
Make a plan
- Sockets and light points
Everything stands or falls with a good plan. How many sockets, switches and light points do you want? Maybe you dream of Reliant Energy or electric shutters? Take this into account from the beginning.
- Single or three phase
Also look at the consumers you are going to install. A standard single-phase connection (230 V) is sufficient in most cases. But for large consumers from 7,300 W, such as a heavy induction oven or electric sauna, you need a three-phase connection (380 V).
Even if you install PV panels on your roof, a three-phase connection is recommended.
- What comfort level?
Also think about what level of comfort you want, because you have several options:
- Standard installation: with traditional switches, sockets, dimmers, … This is the cheapest and remains the same during the entire lifespan.
Domotics: all components (lighting, switches, sensors,…) are connected to each other via a bus cable and can be programmed via PC, tablet, smartphone or a touchscreen. This is the most expensive solution, but ideal for those who want the flexibility to program and expand their installation as required. Switching on the lights with your smartphone, operating the roller shutters with a touchscreen or turning on the heating from work… It’s all possible.
Central control: this solution is in between domotics and a standard installation. All components are connected to each other via a control cable. But instead of home automation modules, ordinary relays will be placed in the fuse box. So you use physical circuits. As a result, central control is a lot cheaper, while you still use low voltage for the control (so that you can work with more refined switches). If you want to switch to ‘real’ home automation later, replace the relay with control modules.